Breaking Cables

We met with the Norco cable guy today at the dealer's. He had already repaired 4 cables on our slide but let me watch while he repaired 3 cables on another OR.(This was his 2nd day at this dealer's repairing cables.) He was very helpful and I think I can do it myself it it happens again. As I've read here, he said the problem was misalignment of the standoff brackets at the factory. The cable which we saw snap was entirely shredded. He aligned several brackets and actually had to use larger ones in two cases because the opening for the slideout where our cable shredded was about 1/4" too big causing the cable to come in at an angle and therefore causing it to fray. I feel more confident now but better quality control at the factory would alleviate a lot of headaches for many OR owners and service personnel at the local OR dealers. Our serviceman was very considerate under the circumstances.
 
Just got back from taking the trailer out after getting it back from the dealers to repair the broken cable on our big slide. I was checking the side of the slides while they were in to replace some missing weather stripping when I saw that the top cable was bent. Does this mean that the slide is having trouble supporting the weight while it is out. I'm afraid it will break after usage again. I'm concerned that if the Norco rep couldn't get it right, how can I.
 

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My 2010 398RLS Residential large slide has a constant and consistent problem with the top outer front cable breaking. We have had the unit for a little over 1 year. The front cable has now broken 9 times! We have had the dealer we bought the unit from fix it twice. After we got on the road traveling, we have had to pull into 6 other RV service centers to have this cable replaced. I did replace it once myself, as we were out in the middle of nowhere. In desperation, we drove nearly 2000 miles out of our way to take it back to Shipshewana, hoping they would correct the problem. Open Range had the unit for 3 days, and felt they had the problem corrected. We left Shipshewana on our way back towards Oklahoma. When we opened the slide the third night after leaving Shipshewana, the cable broke again.

Not only does the cable keep breaking, the whole slide unit 'bounces' coming in and going out. The motor lugs to a very slow pace when you first start bringing it back in. This slide began doing this the third weekend we took it out. The siding inside the trailer moves and shudders as you bring it in or out, acting like it is not secured by much to the frame. The Philips screw threads and the 5/16 bolt threads that hold the pulleys into the wall are both stripped - it's really surprising the pulley has not popped out yet.

Both front landing jacks have failed and were replaced. The stabelizer motor on the rear failed and was replaced. The microwave has died. The fridge has died three times. The gray water tank fell off the brackets and was being held up only by the GAS line! The heater ducts were not secured to the blower, consequently they put out no heat to the trailer; however they did heat the under-belly quite well. The inverter was installed incorrectly and gave us fits for months (changed batteries and strapped the batteries together, and it didn't help); the folks at Shipshewana corrected the wiring problem and supposedly installed a new inverter (the old one appareantly got overheated by the heater blowing on it).

The Trail Express (About the cheapest Chinese tire you can buy) tires on our rig all had side blowouts within 2500 miles of use. Trail Express does not warrant side wall blowouts (how convenient for them). I replaced each blown out tire with Goodyears. We have put over 25,000 miles on the Goodyears with absolutely no problems. One of the tire dealers that put on two of our Goodyears asked me why I would spend $60K on a trailer and then put such worthless tires on it. Well, it came from the factory that way...

I've got a call back into Open Range to see what to do next. We've only had this unit 18 months, and I hate to think that I have to have a cable replaced every two weeks. Depressing when you think how much money this thing cost me...

Update: July 25, 2012
OR had the slide manufacturer install a 'squaring kit' on our large slide around February 10th. The kit seems to have fixed the problem. We have gone almost 6 months and all the cables look great. In total, we have had 21 cables either break or fray really bad in the first 18 months of use.

In October 2011, we took our unit to Shipshewana plant for warranty work. They did a lot of work on a water holding tank that had come loose and was being held in the trailer by the propane gas line! The converter was bad and the inverter needed replacing. Also had work done on an electrical line on the kitchen slide out that had fallen down and was rubbing on the front tire as you were traveling down the road; it eventually wore thru the wire and all the electrical stuff in the kitchen quit. The power cord to the trailer was coming apart, so they gave me a brand new one. This was before the 'squaring kit' was put on, so they replaced 6 bad cables and 1 broken cable. The kitchen sewer valve was replaced because it was hard to open/close. When the water tank fell, it pulled the heating vent off, which allowed great heat under the trailer, but not in the trailer. We also had a few other items repaired and replaced. And then our problems began...

One week after leaving Shipshewana, we had a cable break. Couple of weeks later, a second. A month later the third broke. All this was still before the 'squaring kit' was installed. Then things got bad. One day, a surge hit the TV and DVD in the front bedroom and burned them up. A couple of days later, a surge on a different circuit hit our coffee pot and burned it out. I bought surge protectors for the rest of the outlets. Sure enough over the next couple of weeks, the trailer had burned up 8 surge protectors. I took it to our dealer, who worked on the electrical load center and all the wiring to try to find the problem. They could find none. After a couple of weeks, we got the trailer back and moved back in. Within a day or two, we had a big surge and unfortunately, I didn't have protectors on our 110Volt Residential Fridge, the inverter, or the converter and all three of those got destroyed. Took it back to the dealer, and again they worked on it for a couple of weeks. They could find nothing. They replaced the fridge, the inverter, and the converter. Also got a new coffee pot, new VCR/DVD, and a new TV. But I knew something still wasn't right.

A week later we hit the road. This time I had surge protecters on everything. Everything. Sure enuff, within a couple of days we had another hit. I called OR and got their electrician and we went thru everything, including pulling the fridge out to look at the power line that runs from the hubble to the load center. Unfortunately, OR put that power line where the fridge can wobble up against it while you are traveling. Not smart, but... Anyway, it looked good. He then had me pull the hubble out of the side of the trailer and check to make sure the four wires going into it were tight and secure and that there was no black 'arching' color on the wires or the terminals. Nope, they were tight and clean. And then I happened to notice one of the male terminals that goes into the female side of the power cord that goes to the shore power. It was blackened and all charred up. I looked down into the female end of the power cord and where that terminal plugs in - it was all blackened too. This is where the surges were coming from! The new power cord they gave me at the factory in October was bad. At the dealership, when they were working on the unit, they had their own set of power cords and they hadn't used mine. They never had a problem with their cords. Only time there was a problem was with my new one.

Since we were out in Divide, Colorado, there was no place to readily get a new cable and hubble. I cleaned the terminal on the hubble, and then took a pair of needle nose pliers and 'tweaked' the bend in the terminal to make it fit tighter into the female plug. I then sprayed some silicon spray into the female and on the male terminal. Plugging the cable back into the hubble was difficult because I had put a pretty hard twist on the terminal. But, I could feel the fit was good and tight. I tightened up the ring fastener. I plugged back into the shore power and flipped the breakers back on. I was Working with John Woodcox at OR, and they shipped me a new cord. I have since gone to Home Depot and bought a new hubble. What fun electrical problems can be....
 
I would camp out on their doorstep til they decided to do something about all the
problems you have had. There is no excuse for that many cable replacements.
One small peice of advise I offer is to not lose your cool and get into a hollaring contest
with them. Remain calm but stern on your demands and maybe they will do the right thing.
Good luck and keep us posted as to the final outcome.
 
We just took our camper in for the bent cable problem above on our big slide. We've asked them to check the ridges that seem to have recently appeared under the pvc roof and fix a stuck dump valve on the gray water tank. Mr. Woodcox from Open Range has been helpful answering our correspondence. He told the dealer that he will have the Norco cable dealer come to look at our slide to see if it is out of line--something I suspect. He's promised to fix the problems. We are a little nervous too especially if the cable problem continues. Right now ours is still under warranty.

This was quite an upgrade from our previous camper. We are looking forward to enjoying it in retirement. Hope we did the right thing.
Let us know how things work out for you.
 
John Woodcox is the man to help out on your problems. He was very easy to work with and
got my frame problem taken care of even after warranty expired. I never got all my money reimbursed
from LIPPERT but --hey--I did learn how to spell reimburse.:)
 
I have talked with John Woodcox many times and he has been very helpful. His last word to me was that he would contact Norco.
 
J & S Scott said:
Just got back from taking the trailer out after getting it back from the dealers to repair the broken cable on our big slide. I was checking the side of the slides while they were in to replace some missing weather stripping when I saw that the top cable was bent. Does this mean that the slide is having trouble supporting the weight while it is out. I'm afraid it will break after usage again. I'm concerned that if the Norco rep couldn't get it right, how can I.[/quo

J&S scott, that bracket in the picture doesn't even look right, are there some screws missing? looks bent too. I for one haven't had any problems with cables and I have about 4,500 miles traveled with the beast. Knock on wood.
 
11/14/2011 I recently upgraded the slideouts on my 337RLS Open Range by replacing the bottom seals and putting sheet metal strips for the rollers to roll on. I noticed that there seemed to be a little wear on a couple of the cables, but thought nothing of it. Now however after our first trip since the rework, the cable on the opposite the door slide has only two strings left. I would not even have known about it if not for hearing some noise as I rolled it out after parking it when we got home. Imagine my surprise to see the damage! This is on the OUT cable which should only be tight when pulling out. The noise I heard was the cable pieces wrapping around the pulley, I think. Anyway it does not appear to be out of alignment. It really looks like they did not allow enough space for the slide inside the frame - looks like 1/2 - 3/4" at the top on both ends. Should be more like an inch as there is at the bottom. I am thinking that this is a design flaw.

12/17/2011 Our Open Range 337RLS after about 10,000 miles and many repairs, decided to chew up one of the cables. I ordered three of the BAL kits on Amazon although I only needed one. Everything was there including instructions. (No crimping tool or cutter tool though - about $100 worth of tools.) I watched the video on the BAL site and then used the instructions to complete the work.

The kit comes with 'Chinese handcuffs' to use to connect the new cable to the old. I was working alone so I was not able to maintain tension on the outside as I pulled the old cable out/new cable in. The result was that the handcuff wanted to open up and get stuck in the pulleys - so you really need someone pulling against you to help pull the cables. I removed the cover plate so that I could see what was going on. I recommend this approach because it is easily accomplished and it allows you to view your progress to ascertain that everything is working right. It is not required however.

After I got the loop connected, the crimp made and the cable cut off (to cut the cable I taped it with electricians tape and ground it off with a 4" grinder - the cutter was too expensive. If I had known how big to make it, I would have built a crimper out of two tool steel blocks and used bolts to draw it closed. I found a crimper for $45.) No suggestion was made about how big the loop should be so I tried to make it like the picture. This worked ok, except that as I tightened the bolt, the eye elongated and refused to tighten up.

Don't forget to install the ferrule onto the cable before you put the cable through the eye bolt. I recommend making the eyelet loop as tight (small radius) as possible, but the distance away from the end of the loop not more than 2 inches. The kit did not include the part that forms the loop so it will elongate as the tension is increased. I cut the cable a little long about 4" past the ferrule so that if necessary I could put two more ferrules on there. They indicate that you should put the nut onto the bolt 1/2", but I would say to just give it a couple of threads and hand tighten the cable loop as tight as you can. Clamp it with a vice grips and disconnect the bolt so that you can disconnect the cable eye bolt from the holder in order to make crimping the ferrule easier (possible).

The ferrule is crimped by placing it into the tool with the crease on its edge, ie, you can see the crease of the ferrule - it is not under the blades, but 90 degrees from them. With the cables and the ferrule held in position, crimp the ferrule dead center first and then near each end. The cable is 5/32" but the my crimper had three sizes, none was 5/32" - only the 3/16" would fit the ferrule and it appears to have crimped it sufficiently.

As I mentioned earlier, as I tightened the cable up with the adjustment, it appeared to not tighten. I had marked the crimp in a way that would tell me if it was slipping - it wasn't. So I just kept tightening, retrying, tightening, retrying until I was almost out of adjustment and the cable seems to be about the right tension compared to the other slides (about 1/2 to 1" of deflection when loose, not under tension). All in all, except for the damage to the cable in the first place, not a bad experience.

I think that the cable damage occurred because the rollers are now riding on the sheet metal plates. As we drive along, the slides work back-and-forth and the cables rub against the holes where the cables pass through. What is needed is a short 0.5 - 0.75" tube for the cables to pass through and probably a guide or landing slot with a positive lock to hold the slides from moving relative to the coach body.

If they put a piece of tubing in there, the rubbing surface would be large enough against softer material to keep it from wearing the cables out. I think I am going to put some JB Weld on the cables that look like they are wearing. The trouble is that you can't coat them very far from the end because the cable rolls around the pulley about an inch from where it goes through the frame hole. And any tubing that you use would have to be short to keep it from interfering with the pulleys.

The reason that I think that the steel plates have something to do with this is that we have had this camper since 2008 and have not seen any wear on the cables. The first time out after placing the steel plates, we have a cable completely worn through in 80 miles of travel. It is true that I might have missed it - but I doubt it.

And also it makes sense - the nylon rollers were rolling in relatively soft wood. They took off the coating as they rolled after a few trips. OR tried placing a sheet of plastic under there (not on mine), but it just deformed the plastic until it "rolled it out". Both of these methods essentially provide a landing zone for the slide until OR replaced them with steel plates. You can see the rollers are pressing into the sheet metal too, but not enough to provide a landing zone. So now they need to provide a landing zone and a latching mechanism to keep the slide from vibrating the cables off.

12/27/2011 I went out to recheck the job after talking with a OR rep. He asked me to check the alignment. When I did so by closing the slide, the crimp slipped about 4". The internet says that at least 3 ferrules are needed if the cable is to hold the tension that the cable can handle. I have purchased additional ferrules and a horse-collar to keep the stretching from occurring. I will cut the slipped one off and redo this when the weather is warmer.

update 2/20/2012: You will have to go to the RV.Net forums to find the description of the interchange between me and the OR customer service rep. My post describing the email exchange with OR was found to be of questionable taste and failed the test of confidentiality even though the post shortly before this one was ok to use. If you want to find straight talk about the Open Range - this is not the right place, just a bunch of shills for OR. I can go to the OR web site if I want to get that kind of info.
 
While we were on our trip to Florida--opening and closing the three slides now 8 times, we are happy to report the cables held. We got it back in the middle of Jan. from the dealer after two problems with the cables on the big slide. The technician did say he worked on the alignment--we are hopeful we will have a cable problem -free camping season.
 

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I just purchased a 2012 297RLS and I am very concerned about cable issue. Upon inspection all of the standoff brackets looked like they were properly aligned. We just fell in love with the floorplan and the fit and finish of the unit. This is our first NEW purchase and I hope all goes well and some of the past problems have been resolved. Thanks for all of you and your issues it has made for some great information prior to buying. Happy Camping!!
 
Dear Kastlers,
Awareness is probably 90% of dealing with a potential problem.
May your camping days be merry ones!!
 
Thanks J&S Scott. Ordered a replacement cable kit today. Hope I won't need it in the near future! Atleast I will have one and you never know someone else may need one, and I will save their weekend! Thats what camp buddies are for right!
 
Right! I hope if mine ever break again, there will be someone there to talk me through the repair.
 
My wife and I just pick up our JT337RSL on monday of this week i am learning a lot about this trailer on this site. Is it needed for us to have extra cable for our slides and is if so how many. Can some one please advise us thank you
 
I bought two cable repair kits just for peace of mind.
My trailer is 3 1/2 years old and have not had to use them yet.
 
Does anyone have any info on the crimper tool? The kits may be no value without the crimper.
 
Here is one place that looks like they have them - either with or without the cutters. From what I have read, the cable size is 5/32 so part # 22-ST24C may work (I do not own one of these - but have been thinking about getting one, so I could be mistaken).....

http://www.fortunerope.com/tools.cfm
 

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